My Long-Weekend Guide to Hudson: The Chicest New Hotel, What to Pack, and Where to Dine

If you live in New York City, there are a few destinations that are popular for quick weekend getaways, such as the Hamptons and the Poconos. I even wrote about Greenport on Long Island’s North Fork earlier this summer. But there’s one region that’s often at the top of the list: upstate. It’s the obvious choice for a low-stakes change of pace within a short drive or train ride.

Going upstate can mean visiting the Catskills or the Adirondacks, but one of the go-tos for New Yorkers is Hudson in the Hudson River Valley since it’s right off the Amtrak. (Other popular towns nearby include Beacon, Cold Spring, Kingston, Rhinebeck, and Woodstock.) For a recent two-night trip, I tried out the area’s buzziest new opening: Pocketbook Hudson Hotel and Baths.

When I told my best friend where I was staying, she gushed about how badly she’s wanted to go ever since seeing friends post about it on Instagram following its opening last November. The hotel has been embraced by New York’s wellness community due to its bathhouse with thermal pools, a steam room, classes, and spa treatments, as well as artists for its focus on art and design.

Ahead, see inside my Hudson stay for your next escape from the city, including what to pack and my favorite places to eat.

Hudson’s Chicest Hotel

Pocketbook is located at 549 Washington Street, a few blocks from Warren Street—the town’s main strip filled with shops, galleries, and restaurants. According to the guidebook in my room, “Pocketbook Hudson inherits its name from the Pocketbook Factory, a whole city block of textile manufacturing built in 1885 and operating until 1978. Now listed on the National Historic Register, we have embraced this expansive and industrious history through thoughtful art- and design-forward restoration, where the past communes with the future.”

To get there, I left on a Friday afternoon and took a just-over-two-hour Amtrak train from Moynihan Train Hall at Penn Station, returning on Sunday. The train stops at the Hudson station, which is a 30-minute walk from the hotel.

Inside my room, the Bathing Studio, the star of the show was a stunning bathtub right behind the bed. It felt like something I’ve only ever seen on Pinterest. As I stepped into the bathroom, I excitedly shouted, “There’s an Eckhaus Latta bathrobe!”—a perfect touch.

When I wasn’t relaxing in the room, I spent an afternoon at the baths, alternating between the thermal pools and the sauna. They are open most days from 9:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. and Tuesdays and Wednesdays from 11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. Hotel guests get access to a 2.5-hour slot each day of their stay, and spa treatments are available to book, including bodywork, facials, strength training, and somatic meditation. The lofted studio also offers a rotating schedule of classes, such as sound immersion, dance, sensory meditation, breath work, yoga, and Pilates.

Elsewhere on-site, there’s a retail concept called Pocketbook Market, which has a curated mix of vendors; Kasuri, a boutique stocked with brands like Henrik Vibskov and Vivienne Westwood; and Show: Room, a dedicated gallery space.

Hudson Packing Tips

I’m usually an overpacker, but for this short trip, I challenged myself to fit everything into a weekend bag instead of a suitcase.

Since I knew I’d be going to the hotel’s baths, I packed a swimsuit from Baserange. I always bring at least one piece from Cou Cou on my trips, and this time, it was a midi slip dress. Since it was late August and still hot out, I paired it with my Los Angeles Apparel jelly flats. I also knew I’d be spending lots of time lounging in the hotel room, so I packed airy nightgowns from Eileen West and Lanz of Salzburg.

For beauty, I packed my Leatherology travel case with a Sofie Pavitt Face cleanser and gel moisturizer, EltaMD face sunscreen, M.Ph by Mary Phillips lip liner in Cherry Cola, Rhode lip gloss, Kate McLeod’s Everywhere Stick, and Rōz leave-in conditioner and hair oil.

Shop

Dining in Hudson

After browsing Warren Street shops like Shaina Mote, Nikki Chasin, and the only U.S. location of Face Stockholm (famous for making Carolyn Bessette Kennedy‘s signature lipstick in Cranberry), I went to Hudson Diner—my favorite restaurant on the street.

On Saturday, I had dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, Ambos, a new Argentine spot with a live-fire open kitchen. (Dinner is served Wednesday through Sunday in its dining room, breakfast and lunch are offered on weekdays, and brunch is available on weekends.) I tried the corn-filled agnolotti in a tomato sauce, steak with fries, and a pickled grape chocolate ganache cake with miso caramel. It was all so good.

If you have a car, there are plenty of great options in neighboring towns too: baked goods at Shandaken Bake, tapas at Mirador, a chicken biscuit (and other classic diner items) at Gracie’s Luncheonette, and concessions and a movie at Hi-Way Drive-In Theater.